Puglia in 9 Days: The Italy We Didn’t Expect

Our journey began in Bari, where we arrived at approximately 9:45pm. After clearing the airport, we took one of the official taxis waiting outside the terminal, reaching the city centre in around 20 minutes for approximately €25. For our two-night stay, we chose Bari 102, an excellent bed and breakfast ideally situated between Bari Centrale railway station and Bari Vecchia, both of which were less than a ten-minute walk away. From the moment we arrived, our hosts, Agata and Marco, made us feel incredibly welcome. The room was immaculate, comfortable and well-appointed, featuring a comfortable bed, spacious shower and a balcony overlooking the city. Breakfast was another highlight, with an excellent selection of fresh pastries, fruit, cereals and other local favourites served each morning. Combining warm hospitality, comfortable accommodation and a superb location, Bari 102 proved to be the perfect base for our introduction to Puglia.

While many visitors use Bari simply as a transport hub, we found it had plenty of charm in its own right. The highlight was undoubtedly Bari Vecchia, the city’s beautiful old town. Wandering through its narrow streets felt like stepping into a different world. Around every corner there were hidden piazzas, historic buildings and locals going about their daily lives.

We enjoyed some of the best focaccia we’ve ever tasted here, fresh from a local bakery, Il Gusto Della Tradizione. It was the perfect introduction to Puglian cuisine.

For dinner, we stopped at Ristorante Le Stagioni on Corso Vittorio Emanuele to try the local favourite, Spaghetti all’Assassina. Looking back, we might have chosen a different restaurant, but the food was good, the atmosphere was enjoyable, and more than a few Limoncello Spritzes ensured we had a great evening.

If we were visiting again, we’d definitely allow an extra day or two to experience Bari at a slower pace.

Our next stop was Matera in Basilicata, where we stayed at L’Affaccio dell’Abate. This was a fantastic apartment that offered one of the most memorable views of our entire trip. Host Enzo kindly met us at Matera Centrale railway station and drove us to the property, making our arrival seamless. Our first glimpse of the Sassi di Matera was an unforgettable “wow” moment, and the apartment’s balcony provided the perfect place to admire this remarkable landscape both during the day and at night. We even had the bonus of watching Stage 4 of the Giro d’Italia pass the apartment during our stay. The apartment itself was clean, comfortable and well-equipped, while its location struck the perfect balance between convenience and tranquillity, close to Matera’s restaurants and main attractions yet peaceful enough to fully appreciate the unique atmosphere of the city.

We highly recommend Austin Osteria e Pizzeria located just next door, warm and welcoming service and they do the best pizza! Also worth a mention is Casa del Pane Panificio for the amazing focaccia!

Nothing quite prepares you for your first view of Matera. The ancient stone dwellings, dramatic caves and winding streets create a landscape unlike anywhere else we’ve visited. It’s one of those rare places that genuinely feels unique. Every viewpoint seemed more impressive than the last, particularly during sunrise and sunset when the warm light transformed the entire city into a sea of gold.

Matera isn’t somewhere you should rush through. Many visitors attempt to see it in a few hours or as a quick day trip, but we’d strongly recommend staying longer if possible. The atmosphere is what makes Matera special, and that can only really be appreciated when you slow down and spend time wandering its streets, discovering hidden corners and simply soaking it all in.

For us, it was undoubtedly one of the most memorable places we’ve ever visited.

Our final base for four nights was Dimora Felice, one of the most welcoming and memorable accommodations of our trip. From the moment we arrived, hosts Francesco and Graziana made us feel less like guests and more like friends, offering genuine hospitality and excellent local recommendations that helped us make the most of our time in the town. The beautifully designed apartment was stylish, comfortable and equipped with everything we needed, while the balcony quickly became one of our favourite spots to enjoy a morning coffee and soak up the atmosphere. Located right in the heart of Martina Franca, less than a minute’s walk from the beautiful  Piazza Roma, it was the perfect base for exploring the town’s charming streets, cafés and restaurants. We wouldn’t hesitate to stay there again on a future visit.

Where Bari felt lively and Matera felt dramatic, Martina Franca offered something entirely different: elegance, tranquillity and charm. The town was spotlessly clean, safe and wonderfully relaxed. Its beautiful Baroque architecture, quiet streets and local atmosphere made it one of our favourite places of the entire trip.

There’s some fabulous food on offer here, from the delightful Orecchiette Pomodoro e Cacio at Garibaldi Bistrot, delicious pizzas at Ristorante Ricci or the excellent caprese salad at Birreria Fratelli di Pinta.

Unlike some of the more famous tourist destinations in the region, Martina Franca felt authentic and refreshingly uncrowded. It was also the perfect base for exploring nearby towns such as Alberobello and Locorotondo.

One thing remained consistently outstanding throughout the entire trip: the food. Puglia’s cuisine is refreshingly simple, focused on quality ingredients and traditional recipes rather than unnecessary complexity. Dining out in Puglia was refreshingly affordable, with prices generally much lower than those in the UK. In Martina Franca, a delicious pizza could be enjoyed for around €7, a slice of focaccia for around €2 while a limoncello spritz typically cost €6 to €7. Although Matera and Bari’s prices were just slightly higher, it still offered exceptional value and quality. Some of our favourites included:

• Fresh orecchiette pasta
• Delicious panzerotti
• Authentic Italian pizza
• Pasticciotto pastries
• Countless scoops of gelato
• And then there were the tomatoes.

It might sound strange, but they genuinely deserve their own mention. Fresh, sweet and packed with flavour, they were unlike anything we’d normally find at home. Every meal felt honest, authentic and excellent value for money.

Transport throughout the trip was generally straightforward and affordable with the Bari to Matera journey being the only part that required a little planning. We travelled by train using the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane (FAL) service, which operates from a smaller station (just to the right of Bari Centrale) rather than the main railway station. Once we had our tickets, the journey was inexpensive at around €6 each and very comfortable. Our train departed from the upper platform.

Matera to Martina Franca was much easier. We arranged a private transfer with Bruni Cars, who also took us to the airport at the end of our trip. The service was reliable, stress-free and particularly useful as we chose not to hire a car. Transfer cost was around €120.

While staying in Martina Franca, we used local buses to visit Alberobello and Locorotondo. The buses were cheap, reliable and easy to use, making them a great option for exploring the surrounding area.

Overall, we managed the entire trip without hiring a car, combining trains, private transfers and local buses to travel between destinations and explore the region with ease.

This itinerary turned out to be the perfect way to experience both Puglia and Basilicata. Each destination offered something completely different:

• Bari provided an energetic introduction to the region.
• Matera delivered some of the most spectacular scenery and atmosphere we’ve ever experienced.
• Martina Franca offered a slower pace and easy access to some of Puglia’s most beautiful towns.
• Combined with incredible food, fascinating history and warm hospitality, it became one of our favourite trips to date.

Our biggest advice? Unlike some locations, where English appears more commonly spoken, Puglia offers a more authentic local experience, which seemed to come with a greater language barrier. Brushing up on a few Italian phrases and keeping Google Translate handy can go a long way in helping you connect with locals and travel confidently. Don’t rush. Give yourself time in each location, remain flexible with transport arrangements and enjoy the slower pace that makes this part of Italy so special. We certainly left with plenty of memories, hundreds of photographs, and a feeling that we’ll definitely be returning to explore what else Puglia has to offer.